Piz Badile, English route

[username]

We climbed this great route some weeks ago. We tried to free climbered the route and finally we made three A0.
Anybody knows the difficult in free climbing?

We calculate about 7a.

Another question: anybody knows the modern route that goes up on the right of "English" route?

Sorry for the language, I don't speak italian.

[marco*]

hi i think the route on the right of the english is hiroshima (R. e V. Libera 1995 ) 7a obb. 400 mt to the Nardella route. If you want i can post to you the draw of the route . see you (sorry for my english...)

[username]

Yes!!! I think a man told me that, but I don't have the topo. If you can post the draw of the route I will be happy!

Molto grazie!

And the english route? Do you know if anybody free-climbered all the route?

[dademaz]

Yes!!! I think a man told me that, but I don't have the topo. If you can post the draw of the route I will be happy!

Molto grazie!

And the english route? Do you know if anybody free-climbered all the route?

don't know that, but I guess could be find something on ALP magazine....I'll check out and let you know asap

bye
Davide

[edm]

I did three years ago and, as far as I can remember , the route goes free at about 6c; a couple of hard moves mid way on the crack/ chimney line and then when you move left (if I remember right) towards the end of the route

if you approached it from Gianetti, in what state did you find the rappels? I remember one scary one peg only rappel!

we wanted to do Hiroshima on the right hand side of the English route but were not sure where it started and could not locate easily either bolts, pegs or any other encouraging signs; in anycase, it looked dump and that probably scared us a bit; have you located the start? if so, how many meters to the right of the English Route?

[username]

Yes, we made three A0 in the traverse under the roof to the left.
You say 6c, man... yeah! you have the power. Congratulations! We imaginate that this movements maybe 7a.

We approached from Viale (Refuge Sciora). It's annoying to carry crampons, boots and ice axes. If we had came from Gianetti it had been possible to go without crampons and ice axes?

About "Hiroshima" we knew this route after climbing the English route. I don't know anything else.

[edm]

We did not use crampons coming from Gianetti, but did have them with us not knowing what the conditions where; in fact, it was late summer and we managed to avoid stepping on snow or ice. the approach from sciora looked complex to me with huge wholes and some disturbing noises coming from the glacier

I guess that how hard free climbing is on the route can be affected by how dry and clean from dust the face is when you do it.

On Hiroshima, the topo is published on the yellow guidebook on masino and disgrazia by Maspes; if you still want a copy, drop me a personal message and I'll email it to you

[username]

I want a copy and I drop you a personal message (AKA "PM" in this phorum). Please, don't forget it! and thanks in advance.

[username]

Hey edm, don't forget the theme of hiroshima!

More things:

Do you know the Libera climber? Somebody tell me that he make the "first" free ascent in 2003. What's your name? I'm writing an article about the english route and I want to put the first free ascent (made for you three years ago). Send me a private message o email me if you prefer...

See you, Grazie. ciao!

[edm]

To avoid any misunderstandings, I do not claim a free ascent of the route

On the hardest pitch, my partner was leading and he remembers a couple of restings; he also feels that the grade was more 6c+/7a than 6c, not impossible but a little scary given the quality of in situ gear and the overall setting