posto l'introduzione di un'articolo(relazione) di un ragazzo che per il progetto di un'esame ha fatto l'analisi QFD e l'ottimizzazione del funzionamento di un friend. chi fosse interessato mi scriva che gli mando il pdf dell'articolo, secondo me è un lavoro interessante e ben fatto (ale Ale) .
Introduction
Free climbing is a physically and mentally
demanding sport that requires the climber to use
only his body for the progression while devices are
used only for safety purposes (e.g. to hold a climber
fall). The goal is to reach the summit of a wall.
There are two styles of free climbing: sport
climbing, where there are pre-placed fixed safety
anchors like fixes or bolts, and traditional or ?trad?
climbing, where climbers have to carry and place
most of the safety anchors during ascent.
The most important removable anchors are
carabiners, quickdraws, climbing cams, nuts and
pitons.
Climbing cam, also called friend, was invented by
Ray Jardine in 1978 [1] and is a Spring-Loaded
Camming Device (SLCD). The spring is used just to
position and hold the position of the friend, whereas
the holding of a fall is guaranteed by the special
form of the cams and by the friction force produced.
Friends are positioned in cracks with different and
irregular width, for this reason there are friends of
different sizes.
The main goal of this study was to select the most
suitable friend. There were two main designs on the
market: single-axle and double-axle design. Two
devices, one by Wild Country and one by Black
Diamond, were chosen to study the differences
between the two different designs. The focus was
the selection of the best SLCD structure studying the
range and the forces produced without studying the
strength because it was influenced by materials and
processing technologies.
This study was carried out using a rigid system,
whereas in the real world the pins and the contact
zone between the cam and the rock buckle slightly.
Another limitation is having considered plane and
parallel walls.
In the end an optimization of the distance between
axles of the Black Diamond friend was developed to
maximize the range of the climbing cam.