Climbing Cam Design

Consigli, tecniche, materiali e varie utilità.

Climbing Cam Design

Messaggioda Confa » gio giu 23, 2011 22:35 pm

posto l'introduzione di un'articolo(relazione) di un ragazzo che per il progetto di un'esame ha fatto l'analisi QFD e l'ottimizzazione del funzionamento di un friend. chi fosse interessato mi scriva che gli mando il pdf dell'articolo, secondo me è un lavoro interessante e ben fatto (ale Ale) .

Introduction
Free climbing is a physically and mentally
demanding sport that requires the climber to use
only his body for the progression while devices are
used only for safety purposes (e.g. to hold a climber
fall). The goal is to reach the summit of a wall.
There are two styles of free climbing: sport
climbing, where there are pre-placed fixed safety
anchors like fixes or bolts, and traditional or ?trad?
climbing, where climbers have to carry and place
most of the safety anchors during ascent.
The most important removable anchors are
carabiners, quickdraws, climbing cams, nuts and
pitons.
Climbing cam, also called friend, was invented by
Ray Jardine in 1978 [1] and is a Spring-Loaded
Camming Device (SLCD). The spring is used just to
position and hold the position of the friend, whereas
the holding of a fall is guaranteed by the special
form of the cams and by the friction force produced.
Friends are positioned in cracks with different and
irregular width, for this reason there are friends of
different sizes.
The main goal of this study was to select the most
suitable friend. There were two main designs on the
market: single-axle and double-axle design. Two
devices, one by Wild Country and one by Black
Diamond, were chosen to study the differences
between the two different designs. The focus was
the selection of the best SLCD structure studying the
range and the forces produced without studying the
strength because it was influenced by materials and
processing technologies.
This study was carried out using a rigid system,
whereas in the real world the pins and the contact
zone between the cam and the rock buckle slightly.
Another limitation is having considered plane and
parallel walls.
In the end an optimization of the distance between
axles of the Black Diamond friend was developed to
maximize the range of the climbing cam.
Confa
 
Messaggi: 37
Images: 5
Iscritto il: gio mar 08, 2007 16:40 pm
Località: Azano

Messaggioda Omselvadegh » ven giu 24, 2011 9:52 am

manda manda che sono curioso :wink:
SE NON TI PIACE INCASTRARE CHE c***o VIVI A FARE?
Avatar utente
Omselvadegh
 
Messaggi: 4840
Images: 29
Iscritto il: mar lug 18, 2006 17:12 pm
Località: Albate (Co)

Messaggioda aletonella » ven giu 24, 2011 9:57 am

Anch'io grazie! :wink:
Avatar utente
aletonella
 
Messaggi: 1048
Iscritto il: gio giu 16, 2011 19:29 pm
Località: Crespano del Grappa (TV)


Torna a Tecniche e materiali

Chi c’è in linea

Visitano il forum: Nessuno e 25 ospiti

Forum.Planetmountain.com

Il Forum è uno spazio d’incontro virtuale, aperto a tutti, che consente la circolazione e gli scambi di opinioni, idee, informazioni, esperienze sul mondo della montagna, dell’alpinismo, dell’arrampicata e dell’escursionismo.

La deliberata inosservanza di quanto riportato nel REGOLAMENTO comporterà l'immediato bannaggio (cancellazione) dal forum, a discrezione degli amministratori del forum. Sarà esclusivo ed insindacabile compito degli amministratori stabilire quando questi limiti vengano oltrepassati ed intervenire di conseguenza.